Take a Road Trip Thru Thoroughbred Country

Story and photos
by Katheen Walls

Thoroughbred Country in South Carolina is a culture rich area. When the elite of the Gilded Age picked Aiken. South Carolina as their "Winter Colony," they created a unique culture. Since much of their sports focused on horses, when they descended on Aiken, they brought their high-priced thoroughbred racehorses with them. Thus, the name Thoroughbred Country today. But there is more to present day Thoroughbred Country than Aiken. Blackville, Barnwell, and North Augusta each have their unique personalities. We even saw part of a polo match.

Blackville

Blackville was established in 1833 as a marketing and transportation center until the Civil War.

Today, its main claim to fame is God's Acre Healing Springs. Before Europeans came here, Native Americans believed the spring had natural healing powers. During the Revolutionary War, they brought wounded soldiers here to drink. The soldiers went back to their base and told their comrades that the spring had healed them.

We visited the springs and sampled the water. I can't say it healed me, but there were several locals getting the water, so they must believe it does some good. The sign telling its history also states is had been deeded to God.

We had lunch at Miller's Bread Basket. They are famous for their cafeteria style home-cooked Amish-Mennonite foods. You choose salads, homemade bread, and then you pick from choices of meats and vegetables. I had the fried chicken with cheese grits, bets, and slightly sweet bread that was fantastic. Miller's Bread Basket began operation in 1987 as a family-owned restaurant. It was featured on PBS Backroad Bites in 2019.

Barnwell State Park is worth a stop even if you aren't camping or staying in one of its cabins. The park was built in the 1930s by the Civilian Conservation Corps, and some of the original structures remain, including the tiered-spillway, old pump-house and two picnic shelters. The park has a swimming beach, the Dogwood Interpretive Trail, a moderately difficult 1.5-mile-long trail, three lakes crappie, bream, bass and catfish that also accommodate non-motorized boats.

Barnwell

Little Red Pottery was the Historic Leigh Commissary that was moved here in 1952. It was part of a mill village that made the shipping crates for the fruit and vegetable and poultry industry. It was built in 1926. Everyone called it the Red Barn since it's been here, so when Liz took it over in 1998 as her pottery studio and art gallery, she kept that name. Besides Liz's work, which she creates here, there are about 25 different artists. My husband is also an artist. He does wood art and builds furniture. Liz told us," We have an eclectic mix of everything from a 13-year-old photographer whose artwork we're featuring right here in the front and on the walls, to an 83-year-old artist who does toll painting, Bavarian folk art."

Liz also does a program teaching inmates pottery at the Allendale Correctional, which is a level two South Carolina prison.

King George Lavender Farm, owned by George and Elinor Poole, is a place where just breathing the lavender scented air is relaxing. We met Elinor there, and she told us how they came to buy the farm. "We bought the farm in 2016. In 2018, we became official southerners and moved down from New York. We then started building. This farm looked nothing like this when we purchased it. It was a diamond in the rough, to say the least."

She told how they rebuilt some buildings and a greenhouse, and began growing lavender. We walked out to a beautiful little lake near their cottage and admired the lavender plans. They were just about to bloom when we visited. Elinor told us they grow teas and some herbs, but everything related to lavender.

Inside the small store, we saw a variety of products they create using lavender. They have a Lavender Festival and an Agriculture and Art Tour in June. There is live entertainment, food, and games at the Lavender Festival and plein air artist create paintings inspired by the farm. They offer u-pick-lavender during both festivals.

The farm also hosts weddings and events and there is even Pemberley Cottage that you can rent while visiting the area.

The Lofts on Burr are another charming rental you find here. It's sort of a boutique hotel with only five rooms and a conference center. The building dates back to the early 1900s, when it was a doctor's office. They kept the old brick wall and original floor but have them beautifully renovated. They are on the Circle in downtown Barnwell where the historic courthouse and beautiful park make you feel as if you stepped back into the late 19^th century.

Red Hill Grill Is a new casual restaurant keeping an old tradition alive. The building was once a drugstore and when the owners were renovating it, they discovered an old Coca Cola mural on one wall.

Stroll across the park in the circle and you'll discover a unique vertical sundial in front of the courthouse that was given to the town in 1858 by Joseph D. Allen, a local state senator. It is believed to be the only free-standing vertical sundial in the United States and though it was erected prior to 1883 when standard time began being used, it keeps perfect time within two minutes.

My favorite mural in Barnwell is on the wall of the Pick of the Litter, Animal Advocated Thrift Store. It features numerous cats and dogs and a very true saying.

Aiken

Aiken is the largest and most horse-related town in Thoroughbred Country. Many of the grand "cottages" built by wealthy northerners are still standing. Thoroghbreds and polo ponies are everywhere.

Take a Tour

We took a Tailored Tour with Marty Bailey, who showed us many of the historical homes and told us some insider stories. Marty tailors a tour to your interest. She did a great job with us.

She drove us by one of the oldest houses in Aiken. "Chinaberry," the Colonial Revival, home of Dr. William Williams, who is responsible for Aiken getting the railroad. Williams visited William Aiken, Sr., president of South Carolina Canal and Railroad Company and offered part of his land for an extension of the train route that had recently come to Charleston.

Aiken sent a survey crew, led by Alfred Dexter, who stayed at Chinaberry while surveying. He told Aiken the area was too hilly for the train to function here. Meantime, he fell in love with Dr. Williams' daughter, Sarah, and asked Dr. Williams for her hand. Williams replied, "I'd love to have you as a son-in-law. If only I had a railroad." Naturally, Williams got the railroad; Sarah married Dexter; and the town was incorporated and named Aiken.

One home on our tour, Morrison-Wright Cottage, built in 1900 by Dr. Wright and later rented to the Cabots known as the "first families of Boston." Dr. Wright put in a secret door so his teenaged sons could have girlfriends over at night without their mother knowing it.

Marty showed us another building with an interesting story. The Gothic Revival style St. Mary Help of Christians Church, built to replace a smaller chapel in 1905, had a choir.. and one parishioner was a crooner. On Easter Sunday, 1960, he tried to join the choir, but as he went up the stairs, the director called out, "I'm sorry, you're gonna have to leave, this is only for choir members."

Bing Crosby apologized and went back to his seat. When the director realized who she had rejected, she posted a sign the following Sunday that read "choir loft for choir members and Bing Crosby only."

Bing Crosby did return and sing with the choir.

Of course, houses this old have ghost stories. Rose Hill, built in the early 1900s for Colonel Sheffield Phelps and his wife, on the site of an antebellum house destroyed during the Civil War Battle of Aiken. Rose Hill has over 20 rooms, and the grounds include greenhouses, stables, garage, and kennels with a kitchen so the cooks could prepare fresh meals for their West Highland Terriers.

Marty used to work there when it was a hotel and restaurant. She told about one time, "I'd be in the home, all the doors locked. The rest of the crew would be down in the stables. And a woman's voice would call out my name. At first, I thought it was the owner's mother. But there was nobody in the house. Then I found out from other employees that they believe it's the spirit of Mrs. Phelps. She's still hanging around and when she knows your name, she calls out to you. She's had family members who were here after she passed who would actually see her and it scares the dickens out of them, too."

The new owners are hoping to reopen as a B&B and restaurant.

Willcox Hotel

Marty told us some stories about the Willcox Hotel where we were staying. It catered to the lifestyle of those wealthy Winter Colonists. It's a beautiful late 19th century hotel with the feel of an English gentlemen's club of 1900s. Of course, it only accepted well-to-do guests. A discreet butler would size up a visitor by looking at the shoes and give the desk clerk a signal. If the visitor wore hand stitched shoes, he would be granted a room. If store bought shoes were on his feet, the desk clerk would reply, "I'm sorry. We're all booked."

My room had a comfortable bed, 19th century style furnishings, plus a fireplace and a window seat. It had all the modern amenities. My window looked out back to where the train once brought the winter colonists.

Marty told us that President Franklin Roosvelt would take his private train going to his Warm Springs winter retreat but his train would always "break down" right out back and he would take an elevator up to the third floor to meet with his mistress, Lucy Mercer. The train wouldn't get fixed until the next day. There's a Roosevelt Suite on the third floor still.

The pool is worth a visit even if you're not swimming. It is beautiful.

The dining room is right off the lobby and offers a complementary breakfast. No continental fare here. You order off the menu. Dinner is also available in the dining room. If you like, you can sip a drink in the lobby.

Aiken County Historical Museum

The Aiken County Historical Museum is housed in Banksia, one of the Winter Cottages. It belonged to Richard Howe, who expanded the 1862 farmhouse to a three story 17,500 sq. ft. building. The museum tells the history of Aiken with hundreds of artifacts. Things like an antique fire engine that was used from the 1880s all the way until 1932, several exhibits about the Winter Colonists including Hope Goddard Iselin, who left Hopelands Garden to Aiken, a 1890s one-room schoolhouse and an early 19th-century log cabin outside and so much more.

Hopelands Garden

Hopelands Garden are the grounds where the Iselin home once stood. The home was demolished, but three original structures remain. The carriage house is now the Aiken Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame. The Doll House, once a playhouse and schoolhouse for the Iselin children, is now the home of the Aiken Garden Club Council. The caretaker's cottage is home to the garden caretaker.

The gardens are filed with 100-year-old oaks. There's wildlife, an amphitheater, reflection pool, and three magnificent fountains in the garden.

The Aiken Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame and Museum 

The Aiken Thoroughbred Racing Hall of Fame and Museum contains exhibits about the 40 thoroughbreds that trained at Aiken Training Track and won national races. Only horses that have won an Eclipse Award and are trained here get featured here. Many started at the Aiken Steeplechase, a tradition in Aiken and one of the oldest steeplechase races in the country, begun in 1930.

Stables

For a bigger picture of the equestrian tradition, we visited Legacy Stable, where Brad Stauffer told us about training racehorses. We also toured the Ambrose Clark Stables with Lisa Hall, Hall of Fame and Museum coordinator. It's a historic property that includes a stable, riding arena, and paddocks in Aiken's horse district next to the Winthrop Polo Field. They have an indoor track to exercise horses in rainy weather.

Aiken Training Track

Lisa took us to the Aiken Training Track and told us the story of one of their most famous horses. Blue Peter was the grandson of Man o' War. Blue Peter was owned by Joseph M. Roebling, of the Brooklyn Bridge family. At two years old, he won Hopeful Stakes, and Belmont Futurity Stakes, winning him American Champion Two-year-old Colt honors. In 1948, he was training for the Kentucky Derby but took sick and died. Lisa took us to his grave at Aiken Training Track under a huge oak tree.

Aiken Dining

We have a variety of different style dining experiences. Starting with breakfast and dinner at Willcox, that was on the upscale side. We had a fantastic home style breakfast at the Track Kitchen where the grooms and horse workers often eat. It's a cash only place. Blue collar style but wonderful food. We dined at The Feed Sack, another upscale one where you might run into one of the racehorse owners. Good Girl Brewing Co, named in honor of the owner's late dog, Kate, is a typical brewery with delicious food. 

Aiken Art

Aiken is an artsy city. Aiken Center for the Arts is filled with all varieties of art, paintings, sculptures, glass art, jewelry art. All over Aiken you'll find painted fiberglass horses. One of my favorites is the painted horse, Splendor in the Grass, painted by Jo An King at the art center. Patriot, in picture above is near Whiskey Alley.

Horse Around Aiken on a Treasure Hunt where you get a map at the Center for the Arts of nine painted horses and search for them. When you find all nine, return the map and win a prize. There are many street murals. Stroll down Whiskey Alley and checkout the restaurants and shops where you'll find live entertainment most weekends. Each Thursday In summer, Market in the Alley blends a farmers' market with live entertainment. Just across from Whiskey Alley, Amentum Center for Performing Arts has plays and live entertainment. Aiken even has its own symphony.

North Augusta

North Augusta began in the 1890s. There were two brothers from Augusta, James and Walter Jackson, that started the town. They bought 5-6,000 acres, divided it up into lots, and created the city. They build adjourning homes facing the park looking to the Savannah River.

Lookaway Hall

We took a trolley around North Augusta sites, old and new along the Savannah River, beginning with Walter's former home named Lookaway Hall by his son. Today, it's an inn called Lookaway Inn. The mansion, with five original spacious bedrooms, was finished in 1900. Ten additional bedrooms are in an addition that was built on to the back of the house in 1992.

James's house across the street is very similar and was completed in 1902.

Innkeeper, John Felak, showed us around. The place is gorgeous. The bedrooms in the annex feature beautiful furnishings and private bathrooms, but the historic ambience of the main house grabbed me.

He also told us it has a ghost story or two. There were several stories, but the one I found the most interesting is about a butler, John called him "Mr. Reardon." He was an older gentleman that was homeless, so the Mealing's (the family who lived in the house last) took him in and made him their butler. They said he always wore butler's uniform, and he passed away in the house when he was 100 or so years old.

He's still here. A housekeeper was going down the stairs, she tripped and started to fall. Then, she saw an older black gentleman with a butler's uniform on who stopped her and then he was gone. He's looking after people still.

 Arts & Heritage Center of North Augusta

We visited the Arts & Heritage Center of North Augusta. It's impressive for a small town. The entrance way is flanked on the right by a statue of a railroad conductor, and on the left by an Aztec Style painting. That's a perfect representation of the museum because inside it tells the history of North Augusta on one level and displays art on the other. The railroads were important in this area.

Downtown

Downtown is an area in flux. It's moving from a small town to a tourist destination. New dining opportunities have begun like Sheila Martin, who recently opened Sheila's Baking Company and is bringing her hand-crafted Mennonite signature items like donuts and apple fritters, and cinnamon rolls with brown butter, cream cheese icing and kolaches—fruit-filled pastries. She is serving coffee made by North Augusta-based Stone Roastery.

North Augusta still has a lot of greenspaces. There's a beautiful Veterans Park with plans for a community garden nearby.

Cavalier's Coffeehouse is serving not only tasty coffee but has a rotating selection of wines and regional beers. The courtyard is so pleasant you want to stop and grab a drink.

Grove Gourmet Market premium olive oils and balsamic vinegars, sourced from Italy, Spain, Portugal, and South Africa. I spoke with Tia Harville and she said she always dreamed of opening a restaurant. We spoke of the multiple uses of olive oil, even olive oil ice cream. The store is amazing. I never saw that many varieties of olive oil.

If you're looking for traditional ice cream, there is Pink Dipper.

If you prefer traditional southern style foods, we found that too at McNeely's Place where we had brunch. As a Louisiana native, I know good gumbo when I see it. I saw it at McNeeley's. It had shrimp, chicken, andouille sausage, and real okra. Plus, the pineapple banana nut bread I had was so delicious and unique.

Savannah Riverwalk

We took a walk along the Savannah Riverwalk. It's a beautiful and totally different area from downtown. I'm not big on sports, but I must admit, the amphitheater is fantastic. I'd love to hear a concert there.

Conclusion

I know this is a long post, but there is a lot to see and do in Thoroughbred Country and I wanted to give you a taste of it all.

Public Disclosure Please Read FTC has a law requiring web sites to let their readers know if any of the stories are  'sponsored' or compensated. We also are to let readers know if any of our links are ads. Most are not. They are just a way to direct you  to more information about the article where the link is placed. We have several ads on our pages.  They are clearly marked as ads. I think readers are smart enough to know an ad when they see one but to obey the letter of the law, I am putting this statement here to make sure everyone understands. American Roads and Global Highways may contain affiliate links or ads. Further, as their bios show, most of the feature writers are professional travel writers. As such we are frequently invited on press trips, also called fam trips. On these trips most of our lodging, dining, admissions fees and often plane fare are covered by the city or firm hosting the trip. It is an opportunity to visit places we might not otherwise be able to visit. However, no one tells us what to write about those places. All opinions are 100% those of the author of that feature column.