By Mary Emma Allen

Cookbooks come in all sizes shapes and even formats. You can collect them anywhere.

"I finally had to give up collecting cookbooks wherever I traveled," a lady remarked when she saw me browsing through regional cookbooks at an airport gift shop.  Then she explained she enjoyed the cookbooks that had a regional flare, with recipes from the local communities, often published by church organizations, schools, families, and other groups within an area.

I, too, have had to become more selective as cookbooks abound on my bookshelves.  I like to find those with recipes unique to various regions and cultures, with stories that accompany them.   

Memories of Childhood 

Some of my favorites are those accumulated from local communities. One I especially value is the 1974 Poughquag Cookbook, compiled by the Methodist Church ladies of the community in New York State where I grew up. As I look through this cookbook, many of the names remind me of my early years there, even though I was living in NH by publication time. 

Recipes in this book bring back memories of church suppers, strawberry festivals, and Sunday school tea at Aunt Nellie's.  Her Poppy Seed Cake is there, this dessert she made for special occasions and her teas. 

Mother-in-law's Recipes 

My mother-in-law gave me a cookbook, Parish Potpourri, published by the First Parish United Church of Chrise of Somersworth, NH.  Several of Mum's recipes appear.  These also have gone into our family cookbook and bring back memories of meals in her farmhouse kitchen. 

Reflective of Regions 

These community cookbooks reflect the regions of the country where they're produced.  They often are fund raisers for an organization.  A quilting friend living in Texas gave me, Stitch ‘n Stir, another cookbook my daughter and I enjoy.   

Many of these recipes reflect the culinary taste of Texas and give you insight into what cooks there prepare. The Quilters' Guild of Dallas compiled this book.  They also invited me to teach workshops at their quilting convention, as well as serve as a quilt judge. 

I've found cookbooks as I've traveled through Nebraska, Iowa, Utah, Ohio, Florida and many other states.  Some of these include foods prepared by the pioneers, while others focus more on foods served today.  I also pick up regional cookbooks at yard sales, whether in my hometown or while traveling. 

Foods Tell a History 

From these cookbooks, I've realized that foods often tell a history of a region, community, and a family.  As you delve through them, often gleaning background information and stories associated with the contributors, you learn what they liked to eat and how they prepared it.

Family cookbooks tell the stories of a family and are interesting because they bring together many types of cooking as many family lines contribute.  We've compiled one for the Allen family and it's interesting to learn about the recipes of today and yesterday.  We have foods from across the United States as the family moved from New England to Utah. 

CHOCOLATE CRACKLES – Combine 1 box Devil's Food cake mix, 2 slightly beaten eggs, 1 tablespoon water, and � cup vegetable shortening; stir until well mixed.  Shape into walnut-sized balls, and then roll in granulated sugar.   Bake on greased cookie sheet at 375 degrees F. for 8-10 minutes.

�2009 Mary Emma Allen

(Mary Emma Allen collects cookbooks and researches recipes from her multigenerational home in New Hampshire and during her travels. She has written cooking columns for print and online publications for 45 years.   E-mail: me.allen@juno.com )