Western Trails

Wild West History on a Wall

Murals in Ely, Nevada include cowboys, Indians, cattle drives, and a burro happily flipping flapjacks

by Tom Straka and Bob Wynn

Ely , Nevada is known as a copper mining town. It is also in the center of Great Basin history and it has plenty of cowboys and even some Pony Express history. Ely is built on a boom or bust mining economy. During one of these busts in 1999 the Ely Renaissance Society developed art trail to bring more art, culture, and history into the downtown business district using murals. Now much Old West history can be seen on the walls of the city. The murals now number about two dozen and the art trail has added sculptures. Anyone travelling through town with an interest in the true West will want to explore the fascinating artwork.

The heart of the downtown is the historic Hotel Nevada and Gambling Hall. If you want Old West, this is the place to stay in Ely. The upstairs has lots of historic murals in the hallways (not all the murals are on trail) and the best steak in Nevada can be had at the Jailhouse across the street. But what about the murals? This wild west was authentic had many cowboys, but also Basque sheepherders and Italian carbonari.

Mural by Don Gray and son Jared

One tells the story of the Pony Express crossing White Pine County. The Pony Express trail runs just north of town. Later the telegraph put the Pony Express out of business.

Mural by Larry Bute

Another shows a cattle drive and cowboys.

Mural by Don Gray and son Jared

The Old West was not all cattle; a Basque sheepherder is included . He is watching over his flock with his horse, dog, and camp on wheels.

Mural by Chris Keider

Mining is part of the mural history, as you'd expect; but much of the history is not so predictable. One mural shows the Ward Charcoal Ovens, used to make fuel for the smelters. These kilns are still located at a state historical park south of town.

Sculptur: Joe Pachak

One of the sculptures is of a Shoshone woman gathering pinenuts. The history must include the first inhabitants. The woman tends a baby in a cradle board on her back and a basket to gather the pine cones. Pinenuts represent one of the foundations of Great Basin Native American tribes. The local Shoshone tribe helped to create the sculpture.

Mural by Chris Kreider

Italian Railroad Workers Mural recognizes Italian workers who built the railroad that hauled ore from the mine and brought supplies to the local mining camp.

One mural predates the murals project. It is on the side of the historic Nevada Hotel and Gambling Hall.

Ely is a True West town. It has many attractions, including the Ghost Train, the restored Nevada Northern Railway that offers short excursions. Ely is on Nevada's "Loneliest Road" with other cowboy towns like Eureka and Austin . It is also a showcase of Western art.

Bob and Tom asked around town about other murals. The Hotel Nevada also contains artwork on the walls. Go upstairs above the casino to the hotel section and see fascinating smaller murals on the walls, plus plaques identifying celebrities who have stayed in various rooms. In addition, the local (legal) brothel was said to contain artwork that ought to be of interest. While Tom was deadly afraid to go inside, Bob the photographer recognized his duty and snapped this photograph. Art is where you find it.

Caption: Artwork abounds in Ely, even above the bar at the Big 4 Ranch. Photograph by Bob Wynn.

Authors: Tom Straka is a forestry professor at Clemson University in South Carolina. Bob Wynn is a Western ghost town expert and operates Ghost Town Seekers website. Both have a keen interest in Western history.