GRITS GOURMAND

Valerie Evans Goddard

Imagine the southern stereotypical staple grits and the voguish term gourmand being mentioned in the same breath? Impossible. Well, times and trends are a changin'. A new chapter in cuisine has begun and involves a fascinating tale of the Grits Evolution.

Grits are distinctively classical southern fare or are they? The word comes from an Old English version "grytt" for bran and "greot" meaning ground, both apply to what is typically served in diners all over the south as a creamy comfort food called grits. Colonial Americans first used the term in the 18th century. Traditionally Native Americans served a dish they referred to as "rockahominie," which was ground, softened maize, steaming hot with salt and animal fat. Even the Indians knew how to serve the southern classic dish; creamy with salt and butter. The New York Times called grits "the first truly American food." Of course, there are still those misguided folk that insist on dousing the dish with sugar. Silly people, it's grits not cream of wheat.

Can you imagine grits as an American champion? Well, during the American Depression Era of the 1930's, grits could be purchased for pennies when money was hard to come by. They were filling, stick to your ribs food when energy for back breaking work twelve to eighteen hours a days was the norm. Grits were plentiful and cheap when other foods were rationed or totally unavailable. Often the grits pot stood between a family and certain starvation.

Like every other enduring product, grits have evolved with technology. Today they are available in three forms: regular, quick and instant. Each version refers to the actual preparation and cooking time.

For the purist, regular grits are slow cooked simmering for twenty minutes or more and not for the impatient consumer. Quick grits were produced for just that reason, from stovetop to bowl in five minutes and is the equivalent in taste to the slow cooked brand. Instant grits are for the person or family on the run and ruled by the microwave. They come in a variety of flavors, zap the bowl for a minute and off you go; unfortunately taste is somewhat sacrificed for convenience. There is a variety of grits for everyone.

From survival to comfort food, that's a lot to ask simple ground grain of corn. So where does the gourmand come in? Grits have now found a niche in upscale restaurants across the country. No longer is the creamy corn side dish the joke of south. Five star restaurants today feature dishes utilizing grits that would make our forefathers wince in disbelief. Just such a discovery was recently made at the celebrated Plantain Restaurant inside the prestigious and newly remodeled Sea Turtle Inn located at the heart of beautiful Atlantic Beach just twelve miles south of downtown Jacksonville.

Listed among the top twenty-five restaurants in Duval County by Jacksonville Magazine, Plantains offers a Floribbean menu combining the unique flavors of traditional Florida dishes with a Caribbean flare. It is here that a dish meeting the standard of gourmet grits was discovered. The creation of Executive Chef Ken Cattrell drew us to Plantains and is called Mayport Grits. Featuring pan seared grits prepared with mozzarella, shrimp, bacon, tomatoes, scallions, white wine & cream. Personally, being a devote butter and salt southern girl, I was skeptical. This dish was heavenly.

After some cajoling, I convinced my tablemates to try the recipe much to the delight of everyone present…even a northern friend (who, lord forgive her, prefers her grits with maple syrup). Gourmand by definition means a person with discriminating taste or one who enjoys great quantities of food. So whether your sophisticated palate enjoys the creamy concoction known as grits, cheese grits customarily served with fish southern style or any of the creative gourmet dishes such as Mayport Grits developed by such outstanding Chefs as Plantains' Ken Cattrell. From your neighborhood diner to elegant five star restaurants, grits remain the one truly American food and certainly qualify as gourmet. But no, grits still can't be purchased one at a time!

Of course, Mayport Grits is only a highlight of their extensive menu and the glorious Sunday buffet is not to be missed. In fact the wonderful Sunday buffet brings back to us our traditional notion of the creamy concoction known simply as grits. The Sea Turtle gained particular prominence when author John Grisham became enamored with the hotel and Plantains, which can be found in his book "The Brethren." Reservations for Plantains Restaurant can be made simply by calling 904-249-7402 or visiting One Ocean Boulevard, Atlantic Beach, Florida.