Exhilarating! France Has
Arrived Once Again in St. Augustine
By Leigh Cort
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Chef Jean-Stephane Poinard |
Bienvenue a le Bistro
de Leon! Summer is an incredibly delicious time to be in the kitchen,
especially when the sight, sound and aromas are French
from Chef/Owner Jean-Stephane Poinard to Florian and Catherine
sous
chef and pastry chef. It's the gardening season with an abundance of fresh, local
vegetables, seafood and luxurious ingredients readily available for the Chef's own
palate from Lyon, France. It looks like a cozy French cafe from across the Plaza in the
old city'
and it comes to life the moment you walk in the door, (patrons
are a mix of young and older, couples and singles)
with exquisite pastries and breads
filling up the front showcase.
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Florian Finishes Baking the
Baguette! |
Chef Poinard's style is exuberant, robust, passionate yet
delicate when he's creating a beautifully finished deepdish bowl of Bouillabaise
or meticulously innovative as he turns lunch into an authentic European-style three
course feast. The surprise is that we're in America's oldest city, St.
Augustine. And nearly everyone who walks through the door is anxious to whisper
Bonjour' it's infectious.
As charming as her husband and possessing a totally unique style,
Valerie Poinard evokes an image of having just stepped out of a French film. Usually
dressed in a black frock' and apron, she lavishes genuine concern on the Bistro's
guests. She's a savvy restaurateur too, recognizing old friends with the
traditional double cheek kiss' that makes you decide to run away to France
immediately after a glass of wine and a thin sliver of warm baguette and butter.
The Bistro de Leon has brought a new rhythm of French
cuisine to northeast Florida. St. Augustine is a very cultured artsy town, bona fide
ancient throughout the brick paved streets
and architectural wonders from as early as the late 1500's. This restaurant
flawlessly blends classic France with a contemporary joie de vivre. Jean-Stephane's
simple culinary wizardry imbues his own comfort food' from home (la cuisine de meres) into the tapestry of the
flavor of America's oldest city.
No stranger to the best,
Jean-Stephane is a member of the exclusive Les Toques Blanches Lyonnaises, the rare
fraternity of only 100 members
an organization led by legend Paul Bocuse who is
recognized as the finest chef of the 20th Century. Guests pick up on the
vibe once they meet Poinard, a true ambassador himself of modern French cuisine. Even
dining alone is fine here; the better to be a voyeur and watch others enjoy their dishes,
conversation or a summer read.
In his tres alluring accent Poinard exclaims "When I cook, it's for the people
I feel the rhythm
of music and it's fun. I don't try to make my food adapt to me I get a
feeling for the freshest ingredients of the day and my menu changes moment to moment.
Everything is from my heart and home - soups, breads, sorbets and entrees. We enjoy
the Bistro as if it were Beaujolais Nouveau' every day of the year."
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The Poinards:
Margaux, Jean-Stephane,
Valerie & Jean-Sebastian |
The menu' is a 3-course meal at a set price
that the Chef creates daily, based on the best ingredients available. He recommends
this meal for a complete dining experience a la Francais'. It is
customary in France to trust the Chef to decide what you will enjoy. You may also
select the formula' which is the entree and dessert from the menu'
or the soft' meal which is the appetizer and dessert. If you would
rather choose something other than the menu', you may order a la carte'
(from the card). You'll discover that the carte' is limited to dishes that
can be prepared when ordered, as Chef Poinard only offers the Best!
Ah, the bread. Bread is a very important part of French cuisine.
Bread is not meant to interfere with the enjoyment of a meal, rather as an
enhancement. It's encouraged to use your bread to soak up that last drop of
delectable sauce, or at the end of a meal to pair with cheese. Chef wishes that you
save your appetite for your meal. Enjoy a glass of wine and conversation while your
meal is prepared.
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Jean-Stephane and
Valerie a duet |
The exquisite little profiteroles, artfully plated salads,
aromatic French onion soup and Millefeuille of goat cheese remind me that each meal is
like a trip to Lyon without having to pack a thing. The only catch to eating at Bistro de
Leon is knowing how to do so in moderation, which I clearly do not. It's said that if
you hear singing from the kitchen, you've made the Chef happy. In its debut, it's
obviously making patrons sing too. And it's not just because of the outstanding Tarte
Tatin.
Bistro
de Leon
#12
Cathedral Place
St.
Augustine, Florida 32084
www.bistrodeleon.com
Click
here to learn more about Leigh Cort
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