Where Time Stands Still
By Leigh Cort
Vintage paper placemat
with Carrabelle on the Gulf of Mexico
I imagined that one day I would find a secret
place in Florida that would capture my imagination with intoxicating
stories and images of the people who were courageous enough to
pioneer its mystical treasures. Driving four hours from northeast
Florida to Carrabelle, an easy journey toward Tallahassee then
southward through the Osceola National Forest to the Gulf of Mexico,
I expected a serious dose of solitude. What I discovered was a
porthole into the rare beauty of the ‘Forgotten Coast'. I couldn't
recall why I chose to visit this tiny rural community of long-gone
conquistadors, gamblers and tycoons. But by the time I returned
home, I couldn't imagine why I would ever want to leave again.
For centuries, man has tried to tame the wild
splendor of America. In many places they have. Yet in Carrabelle,
midway between Apalachicola (locals call it Apalach) and Alligator
Point (a sparsely populated estuary known for its clam harvesting),
this authentically rustic village has survived nearly intact. The
Old Carrabelle Hotel is a welcoming reminder that one can relax
and step into a glorious past that hasn't disappeared quite yet. One
of the last remaining treasures in Carrabelle, built somewhere in
the late 1800's, the front door opened onto a story worth telling.
Old Carrabelle Hotel
To Skip and Kathy Frink, along
with partners and good friends Will and Debbie Brown,
their spirit of adventure and fascination with Carrabelle filled
them with a joy of transforming the old house into a bed and
breakfast. For a year, they labored and did almost the unthinkable
construction projects that began by tearing out more than a century
of ‘old' and infusing the house with love, hard work and
charm. For ten years their five bedroom ‘hotel' has entertained
guests from across the continents as they have shared the story of
Carrabelle and saga of the transformation of the old house.
When you arrive and walk into the front room
‘Monkey Bar', it's obvious they all have a great sense of pride,
passion, humor and place. Uncovering a faded image over the front
door that announced ‘Old Carrabelle Hotel', their instincts were
correct. Honor the past and create a comfortably nautical-themed
sanctuary for their guests that reflect Carrabelle's colorful and
picturesque unpretentiousness. The Hotel is perfectly in balance
with the destination; it's the place to experience small town
nostalgia while being a naturalist's paradise.
Left to right: Will, Kathy and Skip
One of the oldest homes in Franklin County,
it may have survived a massive 1899 hurricane. Its story transcends
lore and legend. It might have been an old railroad hotel for people
who worked on the rail or schooners transporting cypress and other
woods from the riverfront. It might have been home to the sawmill
manager. During World War II when Carrabelle became the amphibious
training base for the Normandy invasion, rumor mentions a ‘brothel'.
As they all worked together to move walls and doorways, rewired and
re-floored ~ plumbing, painting, air-conditioning and contemporary
comforts took form.
Open-air porches and a secluded garden
couldn't be more appreciated by Hotel guests when they want to
unwind and watch the sleepy village as would have been fitting a
century ago. The true beauty of the Old Carrabelle Hotel is its
proximity to the waterfront marinas, restaurants and tiny shops. One
could never get lost in Carrabelle. There aren't any stoplights
anywhere but there is the World's Smallest Police Station
that is inside a telephone booth on highway #98, steps from the
Hotel. Circa early 1960's, it's been featured on many national TV
shows and has nearly been loaded into a visitor's van as a keepsake.
(The original booth is on display in the Chamber of Commerce office
across the street).
World's Smallest Police Station
Breakfast each morning is a wonderful and
unique treat. The Frink's present guests with signed cards to
breakfast out ~ either at ‘2 Al's Cafe' or Carrabelle
Junction. I offered my card the first morning at 2 Al's
and indulged in a near ‘belly busting' homemade omelet with ham,
peppers, onions and lots of cheese over browned potatoes and warm
biscuit. Alternatives were Exploded Biscuit platters, Smoked Pork
Chop Breakfast, Big Country (fried steak), eggs, pancakes and the
works. Their $7 card is a passport to all of Al's signature
breakfast dishes that couldn't be served in a more quaint little
beach bungalow. I felt at home immediately, hoping that I would
return one night for an equally well-prepared seafood dinner (most
priced $12.95-$18.50). Al Perry and his father Al shared a dream
that Al, Jr. has continued for more than eight years. The only
Carrabelle eatery open 365 days a year, it's worth the short drive.
Suggestion: When you finish breakfast,
leave your car at the Caf� and walk a short distance to the Old
Beach for a LONG Gulf walk. I'm guessing you won't see anyone for
miles. The famous soft white sand slopes to the clear blue Gulf
lapping near your feet. Leave your flip flops anywhere and they'll
be there when you return.
Old Carrabelle Beach ~ best kept secret
Gazing across the peaceful morning Gulf, it
was time to think about boating to Dog Island and seeing Carrabelle
from the water. Captain Chester Reese was waiting at the
Yacht Club to cruise us leisurely through the Carrabelle River and
St. George Sound, pointing out landmarks and enchanting me with
fishing tales. His company, Natural World Charters, offers
something for everyone, especially if sighting birdlife and wildlife
is your love. I was excited that we would head toward Dog Island for
a shelling expedition – along the way drinking in his knowledge and
fondness for the barrier islands accessible to historic Carrabelle.
Captain Chester Reese
Once aboard, the ride was highlighted by
watching a huge sleek dolphin who decided to swim alongside the 24'
Morgan sport fishing boat ‘The Eagle' and accompany us for five
thrilling minutes. He proudly danced close enough to
almost pet! Cruising for four hours, it was a very stable ride
that can accommodate up to 4 anglers for fishing offshore or closer
in where we meandered to Dog Island.
Each month of the year is known for something
‘biting'. With 25 years of experience working on the water, Capt.
Reese is expert at understanding which fish and weather issues
affect the fishing scene. Whether it's February and speckled trout,
March Spanish mackerel, April flounder or May pompano and bluefish,
I found a great source of information at
www.SaltyFlorida.com .
Capt. Reese started as a mate at the Bahia Mar docks in Ft.
Lauderdale until he moved to Franklin County and began his private
captain services. He's a warm, charming and masterful guide who
knows how to navigate first timers or seasoned fisherman around the
Gulf marinas and waterways.
Listening to the story of the sunken
shrimp boat
Fishing Tips:
Charter fishing rates with Capt. Reese are:
- Fishing
for (4) people half day/ $400. $700/day
- Eco
environmental tour for (6) people $350
-
Shelling excursions for (6) people $225 to Dog Island
Oysters from Apalachicola Bay Area
The Glorious Oyster
I can still taste the sweet/salty freshness
of true Gulf oysters harvested in the morning by Barber's Seafood in
Eastpoint, fifteen miles west of Carrabelle. On Scenic Highway #98,
Eastpoint is a commercial fishing town with processing plants,
docks, seafood markets and restaurants stretching the length of town
along St. George Sound. Large piles of oyster shells attest to the
main activity; it doesn't get more authentic than this.
Watching oyster fishermen with their rakes
and meeting Stephanie Barber, owner of Barber's Seafood,
was unparalleled in my culinary ‘to do' list. Stephanie and husband
David are a third generation oyster fishing family, selling
wholesale and retail oysters nationally. Eastpoint has been the hub
of oyster fishing since the late 1800's. With more than 1,000 people
employed by the oyster industry along this part of the Byway,
oystermen harvest the oysters today in the same manner they have for
a century. From small wooden boats 20-23 feet long, using tongs that
look somewhat like two rakes attached scissor-style, they haul the
oysters to the surface.
I barged into the production warehouse as
afternoon day boats brought in mounds of sacks filled with
minutes-old oysters ready for conveyer belt water spray, cleaning
the beautiful gray shells. Stephanie led me through the multi-tiered
process from the time the boats arrive on the shore, each oyster
individually culled by hand and placed on the boat board where they
are singly examined for size. The combination of salt (salinity) and
fresh water, along with ideal rain and temperature conditions play a
mega role in the life of an oyster. The little spats (baby oysters
�" long) take approximately four months to harvest into 3" oysters
and larger. The washed oysters are sold in bushels (50 lb. sacks) or
� box (30 pounds). What about the gorgeous shucked oysters that many
of us find in the fish or super market? Barber's employs at least 20
people who open/shuck the oysters that eventually get delivered to
restaurants – even oyster co-ops.
Nearly every eatery in the Gulf region features oysters on their
menu. From raw and steamed to gourmet combinations that get broiled
or baked, this is truly oyster heaven.
Boss Oyster Restaurant is a top pick where my first dozen raw
oysters with spicy cocktail sauce led to another six jumbos topped
with chopped onion, peppers, bacon and cheddar – served bubbly hot.
They encourage patrons to submit their recipes which often make the
menu list!
If you're a golfer, a major surprise awaits
you. St. James Bay in Carrabelle is the only Audubon
International designed and sanctioned public course within 60+
miles. Robert Walker created a brilliant course in complete harmony
with nature. More than 100 of the 375 acres are wetlands and water
hazards, with bunkers perfectly fashioned to define the layout.
Robert Walker worked closely with Audubon International to create a
course in complete harmony with nature. This perfectly manicured
18-hole championship course gives golfers the ability to play a
strategic game of golf. General Manager Russ Cooper is available
daily to share the story and course – in addition to offering
visitors the opportunity to plan a guided kayaking excursion down
the Crooked River. ($75/one week advance reservation recommended).
Golf fees begin at $60/pp including cart.
For the past 100+ years, Carrabelle has seen
its share of life and history. It has its feet grounded in world
history at the Camp Gordon Johnston Museum that is dedicated
to the heritage of soldiers of World War II and those who trained
for amphibious landings. Artifacts fill six rooms: barracks,
equipment, military vehicles, photos and wonderful docents available
for interpretation.
The sponge ‘era' in the mid 1800s was
something I didn't really give thought to, until I stumbled upon the
Sponge Shop in nearby Apalachicola. During its heyday, sponges were
an economic influence that ranked this region the third largest
sponge producing area in Florida. By 1888, it employed about 100 men
with two sponge warehouse exchanges. Today, the warehouse is still
standing as a testimonial of the grand shipping ports on the
Forgotten Florida coast. In the building (circa 1831) the Sponge
Shop offers all-natural sponges and a bazaar-like collection of
fabulous take-homes. Their most popular product is a sponge dunked
into a luxurious and aromatic 6-oz. bar of goats milk and olive oil
soap. Even if you're not a shopper, the blend of history and
genuineness here is worth the journey from Carrabelle.
As the three night escape was coming to a
close, my bucket list was getting longer. Returning to test hiking
skills in Tate's Hell State Forest, a four-mile trail
featuring coastal scrub habitat, old sand dunes and Sand Pines,
hikers eventually pass over Yent Bayou, a scenic stream winding
through marsh grass into the Gulf. I've heard that you need to keep
your eyes open for black bears and cubs. The Crooked River
Lighthouse & Museum will also be there upon my return where, for
115 years, it guided timber ships and fishermen through the
treacherous pass between Dog and St. George Islands (circa 1895).
Saving a slice of nostalgia for my last
breakfast at Carabelle Junction, owned and created by Ron
Gempel, his reputation for building great sandwiches wasn't
wasted on me. For breakfast, the tall ‘everything bagel' was laden
with cream cheese, tomato, red onion, fresh avocado and bean sprout
threads ($6.25). What complimented breakfast was memorable;
characters out of ‘Central Casting' (written with love and
respect) came and went for coffee, pastries, eggs & bacon, even
ice cream cones. Meeting Mayor ‘Curly' Messer and his gang, Chamber
of Commerce leader Suzanne Zimmerman, local police officers, new
property owners and a vibrant cast of characters made departing more
difficult.
Nostalgia
is reality at Carrabelle Junction with Mayor Curly Messer
The ‘Forgotten Coast' had grabbed hold of me.
I am beginning to understand when people say ‘Come to Carrabelle
when you're looking for nothing to do'. Perhaps one Thursday
night in the not too distant future I'll join Skip and Kathy at 2
Al's for trivia night. I have a lot to learn about Carrabelle and
why the first Europeans and great powers of the 18th and
19th centuries fought for possession of North Florida.
Let's meet in the Hotel's Monkey Bar and concoct a new oyster recipe
drizzled with love.
HOW TO STAY IN TOUCH:
www.OldCarrabelleHotel.com
www.NaturalWorldCharters.com
www.StJamesBay.com
www.Carrabelle.org
www.CampGordonJohnston.com
www.ApalachSpongeCompany.com
www.SaltyFlorida.com
2 Al's Caf� at the Beach – 850-697-4576
Carrabelle Junction – 850-697-9550
Barber's Seafood – 850-670-8830
Boss Oyster Restaurant ~ 850-653-9364
